Sunday, October 18, 2009

What is Good Conformation?


Conformation—the way a horse is put together—will determine not only how sound a horse remains throughout his life, but will also determine to what extent he will excel at his particular discipline. While some points of conformation vary with the type of horse and what job he is doing, there are some general rules of conformation that most horsemen agree on.

Feet

Feet should be large enough to support the horse and his weight, and the hoof wall should be hard but not brittle. The front feet and the back feet should appear to be symmetrical from all angles. The sole should be slightly concave, and heels should be even where they join the sole.

Legs

Legs should be straight. Legs that are out of alignment can result in soundness problems, as the forces that travel up the leg of the horse as he moves will affect other parts of the body, depending upon where legs deviate. Legs should also be symmetrical, with no bumps or bulges. Each pair of legs should also match each other.

Joints

Good joints are imperative to any horse who performs. Joints should have the correct axis, and they should be symmetrical, free of lumps, cool to the touch, and should be in proportion to the size of the horse. If one joint seems too large it should be examined for injury. If all joints seem too large the horse should be examined by a veterinarian for nutritional or metabolic problems. From the front view, a line dropped from the point of the shoulder to the ground should bisect the knee, fetlock, and hoof. From the side view, the line from the front of the fetlock, along the top of the pastern, and continuing along the front of the foot to the ground should be straight.

Shoulder

Good shoulder conformation will depend upon what the horse is being used for, as shoulder slope and how long the shoulder is varies with breed type and use. As a general rule of thumb, horses used for speed should have a long, sloping shoulder, while those used for power have more upright shoulders.

Withers

Since withers are what keeps a well in place, any ridden horse needs to have appropriate withers. Horses with flat withers, often called mutton withers, often have difficulty being ridden up and down hills, but can sometimes fare well on the flat. Poorly conformed withers can cause pain in the ridden horse and can lead to unsoundness.

Hip

The angle and length of the hip should match the angle and hip of the shoulder. While short hip lengths rarely cause unsoundness they can negatively impact speed and power.

Back and Neck

The long back versus short back debate continues depending upon the use of the horse. While long-backed horses do tire more easily, they can be more comfortable to ride. Long-backed horses can also excel at jumping because of the scope the long back allows them. Long backs also allow more movement in the horse's legs, which is why many long-backed horses excel at driving.

The length, shape, and way a horse's neck connects to the chest and the back will vary depending upon the breed and use of the horse. Horses who run need longer necks, while horses who show in park or pleasure classes often benefit from aesthetically pleasing upright necks.

Eyes

Horses need big, well-placed eyes. Horses with small eyes may suffer from impaired vision or have a medical problem. Eyes should not be set too far toward the sides of the head, otherwise peculiar fields of vision are sure to be an issue.

Nostrils

The nostrils should be open and symmetrical, to allow for maximum air intake. Horses with extremely dished heads or thick necks sometimes have difficulty taking in the right amount of air despite nostril size, so make sure you take these things into consideration.


About The Author

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

What is Good Conformation?


Conformation—the way a horse is put together—will determine not only how sound a horse remains throughout his life, but will also determine to what extent he will excel at his particular discipline. While some points of conformation vary with the type of horse and what job he is doing, there are some general rules of conformation that most horsemen agree on.

Feet

Feet should be large enough to support the horse and his weight, and the hoof wall should be hard but not brittle. The front feet and the back feet should appear to be symmetrical from all angles. The sole should be slightly concave, and heels should be even where they join the sole.

Legs

Legs should be straight. Legs that are out of alignment can result in soundness problems, as the forces that travel up the leg of the horse as he moves will affect other parts of the body, depending upon where legs deviate. Legs should also be symmetrical, with no bumps or bulges. Each pair of legs should also match each other.

Joints

Good joints are imperative to any horse who performs. Joints should have the correct axis, and they should be symmetrical, free of lumps, cool to the touch, and should be in proportion to the size of the horse. If one joint seems too large it should be examined for injury. If all joints seem too large the horse should be examined by a veterinarian for nutritional or metabolic problems. From the front view, a line dropped from the point of the shoulder to the ground should bisect the knee, fetlock, and hoof. From the side view, the line from the front of the fetlock, along the top of the pastern, and continuing along the front of the foot to the ground should be straight.

Shoulder

Good shoulder conformation will depend upon what the horse is being used for, as shoulder slope and how long the shoulder is varies with breed type and use. As a general rule of thumb, horses used for speed should have a long, sloping shoulder, while those used for power have more upright shoulders.

Withers

Since withers are what keeps a well in place, any ridden horse needs to have appropriate withers. Horses with flat withers, often called mutton withers, often have difficulty being ridden up and down hills, but can sometimes fare well on the flat. Poorly conformed withers can cause pain in the ridden horse and can lead to unsoundness.

Hip

The angle and length of the hip should match the angle and hip of the shoulder. While short hip lengths rarely cause unsoundness they can negatively impact speed and power.

Back and Neck

The long back versus short back debate continues depending upon the use of the horse. While long-backed horses do tire more easily, they can be more comfortable to ride. Long-backed horses can also excel at jumping because of the scope the long back allows them. Long backs also allow more movement in the horse's legs, which is why many long-backed horses excel at driving.

The length, shape, and way a horse's neck connects to the chest and the back will vary depending upon the breed and use of the horse. Horses who run need longer necks, while horses who show in park or pleasure classes often benefit from aesthetically pleasing upright necks.

Eyes

Horses need big, well-placed eyes. Horses with small eyes may suffer from impaired vision or have a medical problem. Eyes should not be set too far toward the sides of the head, otherwise peculiar fields of vision are sure to be an issue.

Nostrils

The nostrils should be open and symmetrical, to allow for maximum air intake. Horses with extremely dished heads or thick necks sometimes have difficulty taking in the right amount of air despite nostril size, so make sure you take these things into consideration.


About The Author

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Alternative Therapies For The Horse

Alternative Therapies For The Horse
by: Ron Petracek

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It is not uncommon that trends in veterinary medicine to mirror trends in human medicine. To that end, it's not surprising that alternative medicine is being used more frequently on sick and injured horses. Instead of prescribing the latest wonder drug, some veterinarians are instead prescribing a little hands-on healing in the hopes that less invasive techniques will bring about a return to health. In this article, we'll examine two alternative healing practices that are becoming very popular in the horse world: chiropractic and massage.

CHIROPRACTIC

Equine chiropractors traditionally deal with "subluxations" of the vertebrae. Defined, subluxations are incomplete or partial dislocations of the vertebrae; in other words, vertebrae that are out of alignment. These misalignments can not only cause the horse pain in his back, but can also cause soft tissue damage around the area of the spine. And since the spine is said to be the conduit to the central nervous system, subluxations may possibly change neurological function of the spinal cord, the spinal nerve roots, and portions of the nervous system. The equine chiropractor adjusts these subluxations—in plain speaking he put the spine back into alignment—and returns the horse to optimal health.

What conditions does chiropractic treat?

Chiropractic is used to treat back and neck pain in the horse, as well as nerve damage. It can also be used to diagnose and come up with a treatment plan for certain lamenesses. Some people even use chiropractic during prepurchase exams to determine whether the horse has any neck or back injuries.

How is chiropractic administered, and how much does it cost?

Like a vet exam, the chiropractic exam begins with a case history. Posture analysis, gait analysis, static palpation, motion palpation, orthopedic exam, and a neurological exam follow. Based upon his or her findings, the vertebra is then manipulated during the adjustment by the practitioner.

How much does a chiropractic treatment cost?

A chiropractic exam and adjustment cost approximately $50-75, depending upon the extent of the problem and the length of the session.

Are there any risks?

Some believe that in the wrong hands, chiropractic can cause back and neck pain, lameness problems, and spinal cord injury. The equine chiropractor must have strong knowledge of equine vertebral anatomy, including vertebral joint relationships, the relationship of neural components, muscle attachments and nerve supply, and normal and abnormal range of motion.

MASSAGE

During a massage, the soft tissues of the body are worked by experienced hands and fingers. As any human who has been the recipient of one knows, massage stimulates acupuncture points and relieves tension. Myofascial release therapy, in which the fascia that connect and surround the muscles are manipulated, and myotherapy, a method of relaxing muscle spasm, improving circulation, and alleviating pain, are two of the most common types of equine massage therapy.

What conditions does massage treat?

Massage can really help sore muscles and tendons. It is frequently used to repair damaged muscle fiber, such as contracted tendons, ligament and muscle strains, chronic inflammatory conditions, peripheral nerve injuries, scar tissue, and chronic edema.

How is massage administered?

The soft tissues of the body are worked by the hands and fingers. The strokes are generally performed in the direction in which blood flows, which is toward the heart.

How much does equine massage cost?

A massage costs between $25 and $75, depending upon its duration.

What are the risks?

If your horse has acute inflammatory processes of the skin, soft tissue, bone and joints, fractures, sprains, circulatory disorders, presence or danger of hemorrhage, lyphangitis, and tumors, then massage should be avoided.


About The Author

Ron Petracek was raised in Souther Idaho,with a black morgan as his adventure companion. Horses,Diesel trucks and the Outdoors are entrenched in his DNA. For Equine classifieds & Articles please visit http://www.equinejunction.com/network.php or our forum at http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforum

How to Survive (and even enjoy!) Your First Dressage Show Drew Pilton


Even if you are the most confident, well-prepared of riders, your first dressage show can reduce you to nothing but a bundle of nerves. There is so much to remember, and we're not talking about just the test! Well, relax, we've got everything covered. By the end of this article, you'll be on your way to realizing your dressage goals in a relaxed, enjoyable manner.

A month before the show:

* Be mentally and physically prepared. Sounds obvious, but too often riders enter their first dressage show without asking themselves the following questions: Do I understand the objectives—rhythm, relaxation, and suppleness—of dressage? Can we ride the required movements in a controlled, accurate manner, and do we consistently do so at home? Does the horse have the ability to stay on task, and is he well-behaved?

* Don't focus on your nerves. If you wait to compete until you aren't nervous about it, you'll never compete. Even top-level dressage riders get nervous. Instead, realize that a healthy case of nerves can keep you focused on the task at hand.

* Read the AHSA rule book. Read it twice! Many riders are eliminated because they haven't taken the time to read the rule book and inadvertently break a rule. You've worked way too hard to let that happen!

* Begin to memorize the test. Know it front and back, inside and out. Walk the test on your own two feet, ride the test on your horse often, draw a diagram and trace it with your finger, and think about it in your head when you are driving and falling asleep. Know it in your sleep, because if you get in the ring and are nervous, it will be the first thing you forget.

* Arrange for someone to read for you. If you suffer from the type of nerves that empties your brain of everything you've learned since birth including, unfortunately, the dressage test you've memorized, then find a friend or family member who will read it to you.

* Get a good coach. Practice doesn't make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect. Ride with your instructor as often as you can afford to. Your coach will be able to gauge your position and your ability to use your aids correctly, which will have a direct and very important impact on your horse's progress.

A week before the test:

* Start paying attention to details. Make sure your equipment is clean and in good working order, and refer to the AHSA rule book to make sure it's all legal. Be sure your clothes fit. Make a check list of everything you need to bring with you.

The day before the test:

* Give your horse a good once-over. Now is a good time to bathe, clip, and perform other grooming odds and ends. Give your tack trunk and trailer a fairly detailed inspection to determine you've packed everything you'll need.

* Give yourself a good once-over. And don't forget to eat well and get good night's sleep.

* Visualize the test. The night before your test, banish your nerves by visualizing it in your head. Banish any bad thoughts, and instead concentrate on riding the perfect test in your brain. The next day your brain will feel "experienced," and that will help!

The day of the test:

* Find a partner-in-crime to attend to the details. This person can check you in, get your number, do last-minute grooming, and make sure that your time is freed up to concentrate on the test at hand.

* Check out the arena. Rules will prohibit you from riding in it, but you may be able to walk it. If this is possible, take advantage and walk the test on foot.

* Give yourself plenty of time to warm up. You want to be on long enough to warm up, but not on so long that you and your horse are tired before the test even begins! Do the same warm-up as you do at home, so something feels familiar!

* Arrive early. Get to the arena well before the whistle blows, and give yourself and your horse a once-over to determine that everything is in order. If you have a friend or family member there, ask them to look you over as well.

* Focus on your horse. And not on your nerves. If you focus on your horse and not yourself, everything will fall into place.

* Bring your sense of humor to the ring. Everything will not be perfect. Be competitive and give your personal best, but keep everything in perspective.

* Enjoy yourself. Enough said!


About The Author

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Tips on How to Train a Dressage Horse to Do Turn on the Haunches and Walk Pirouettes

The systematic way to train a dressage horse to do a walk pirouette is to start with turn on the haunches.

A turn on the haunches is a 180-degree turn done at the walk. Your horse bends in the direction of the turn. His forehand moves around his haunches until he's facing the opposite direction. His outside hind foot and his forefeet move around his inside hind foot, which forms a pivot.

• Your horse must maintain the regular rhythm of his walk. His pivot leg gets picked up and put down each time, slightly ahead of where it was before.
• Turn on the haunches engages the hindquarters and encourages bending of the joints of the hind legs. The end result is that your horse's body feels more packaged.
• Turn on the haunches is an introductory movement for the walk pirouette. It differs from a pirouette because it's done from a shortened medium walk while a pirouette is done from a collected walk. Also in the turn on the haunches, your horse's hind feet make a small circle, (about the size of a dinner plate). In a walk pirouette, your horse's inside hind leg should be picked up and put down almost on the same spot.

The aids to train your dressage horse to do a turn on the haunches to the left are:

Seat:
Put your weight on your left (inside) seat bone.

Left leg (inside leg):
Place your left leg on the girth to promote bending and engagement of your horse's inside hind leg.

Right leg (outside leg):
Place your right leg behind the girth to help bend your horse around your inside leg and to prevent his hindquarters from swinging out.

Left rein:
Turn your wrist to ask for +1 flexion.

Right rein:
Use your right rein as a siderein to limit the amount of bend you get in the neck.

Both hands:
Move both hands in the direction of the turn to move the forehand around the hindquarters. Keep your hands side-by-side and equidistant from your body. Think of your left rein as an opening rein and bring your right rein closer to your horse's neck. Imagine that your hands are like the second hand on a clock sweeping around the face of the clock.

The sequence of aids are:

1. Prepare for the turn by using a "stilled seat" to shorten your dressage horse's medium walk.

2. Bend your horse to the inside.

3. Set him up for the turn by riding in a slight shoulder-fore position.

4. Bring both hands in the direction you want his body to turn to guide his forehand around his hindquarters.

Since the two most important ingredients to train a dressage horse to do a correct turn on the haunches are rhythm and bend, preserve these qualities by introducing it on a circle.

• Do haunches-in on a 10-meter circle.
• As long as your horse keeps his rhythm, bend, and desire to go forward, decrease the size of the circle while you're still in haunches-in gradually.
• Make the circle only as small as you can while keeping the rhythm, bend, and forward desire.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques?
Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence?
Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?
Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jane_Savoie

Jane Savoie - EzineArticles Expert Author

Dressage Training For the Arabian Horse

Is their a difference in training an Arabian for Dressage as opposed to training a Warmblood or even a Quarterhorse?

We found that out! My daughter is the most fortunate girl when it comes to her dressage trainer. Until a couple of years ago, she had mainly trained children and adults for dressage on Warmbloods and Quarterhorses but since we had this cute little Arab which was so willing to please and totally green, she took him on.

Here are some main differences in training hot blooded horses for dressage, versus Warmbloods and even Quarterhorses:

1. Keep your Arabian horse working at least a little 5 -7 days a week. Don't let him sit and get overly eager to go. They are hard to bring down and concentrate once they are excited.
2. While you can drill a Warmblood over and over again on the same exercise, an Arab needs variety. After you practice something 4 or 5 times, you really need to do something else for a while - preferably before his brain short cuts and he decides he's done.
3. When you do an exercise the same way repetitively, have him do the exact opposite for a while - otherwise he will let you know what is right and what is wrong. For example, do a 'leg yield' away from the rails instead of toward the rails. It breaks his thinking pattern and leaves you in the driver's seat.
4. Ride the horse you're on - be calm, don't override. You are supposed to be the calming agent. If you have an electric seat, take a very deep breath and lower your energy output by lot.
5. Arabs' heads like to come up, circle, maybe even hit your helmet while doing it. Don't try to pull his head down. It only makes it worse. On the other hand, don't give too much either, try to follow with your hands and send him forward and hopefully he'll learn that that's not a way to evade the bit and come off the aids.
6. Many Arabians learn to curl and go behind the bit. Again, that is nothing but an attempt to evade your aids (hands) - like above, send him forward while following his mouth with your hands.
7. And last but not least, love him, support him and try to turn all that energy into positive tension. Let him be brilliant and let him show off how cute he is while constantly suggesting to him what you want. You really cannot make them do anything.

And now I would like to give you our Free eBook: "What to Do In Time of Emergency - A Guide & Workbook for Families with Horses".

All I ask is that you answer a simple question to help us with our next interniew and eBook. Just go here http://www.PerformingHorse.com

You will get instructions of how to download your copy and will receive "Tips & TidBits from our Barn" our newsletter.

Now go out and ride your horse!

From Monique Myers @ http://www.performinghorse.com/AboutMe.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Monique_Myers

Dressage and Natural Horsemanship - From a Husband's Point of View

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PART 1

Horses, Journey from Fear to Respect. From a husband's point of view.

The world of horses as a hobby is dominated by women. Yes, this is a generalization. It does not always hold true, but I can confidently say that this is a fact. Two years ago my wife wanted to get a horse. It had always been a dream of hers, and frankly I was beggin for her to get a hobby. I have tons of hobbies, and when I left to do these things she would always be a little irked that I was not spending a little more time with her. Frankly I can't fault her. I do have a lot of hobbies.

So she got her horse, and we saw each other less and less. At first it was great. We were both happy doing what we do, and we made the most of the time we spent together. Eventually, we realized that we would have to meet on some common ground so we were more a part of each others lives. One Huge Problem. I realized horses terrified me. (By the way, she made some concessions as well. Not a ton of wives I know that totally get into Buffy the Vampire Slayer and Battlestar Galactica. But that is a discussion for another time.)

Thing is, I am not a fan of being controlled by anything. This includes fear. So I set out to overcome this irrational feeling. I know a guy named Paul Creviere Jr., the man was deathly afraid of water. He overcame this fear, became scuba certified, and eventually wrote a book called "Wild Gales and Tattered Sails." It is about the shipwrecks of the Great Lakes. Which by the way he explored himself. I can't honestly directly compare my situation with his. I believe his fear was rooted deeper than mine own. Yet his situation did provide me with some small amount of inspiration.

These animals are huge, powerful creatures that seemingly have an unpredictable nature that stems from them being prey animals. Huge, Powerful, Unpredictable. Take all three, and you have a very fearsome and dangerous animal. Thus my fear seemed warranted. But I have motivation, spending quality time with my wife and not completely hating it.

I am dog guy. I love dogs. I have never met a dog I don't understand. I can always tell if a dog is approachable. Does it want to bite me, warn me, love me, lick me? I can just tell. I cant explain how I know what the dog is thinking, I just do. We fear what we don't understand. Through knowledge comes understanding. Through understanding comes trust, and the absence of fear.

I am Capricorn, thus I think in logical terms. Logically speaking, learn everything you can about the horse's language so you can eventually understand it's reactions and the reasons for these reactions.

The process that gets us there is much more complicated.

PART 2

Usually when you are trying to overcome something or learn something new, you always have that "Ah HA" moment. The moment where something suddenly clicks. When this happens, it usually gets you over the hump and on the path to victory. My moment came at a barn where the owners had two great danes in their yard. They were separated off by invisible fencing and some "Beware of Dogs" signs. As we walked up to the barn, they came barreling out of the house, barking and growling, doing their job. The big one (Mighty Joe) was saying "This is my house, don't do anything stupid."

Well, I love dogs, and I grew up with big dogs. When I saw them, I simply had to meet them. So I entered the no fly zone. I know all the rules. I kept my eyes down, I knelt down in an attempt to soften any aggression they may sense, and I let them smell me for several minutes before petting them. It took about 5 minutes before I was rubbing bellies and scratching ears.

Sitting there playing with a couple confident 150 pound predator animals, I took a gander at my wife across the way brushing a 1000 pound slightly nervous prey animal and realized that I can do this. I just had to learn the signals. If I was not afraid of two barking/growling Great Danes, then there is no reason I should fear the horse. So I immersed my self one step at a time.

It started with exposure. Just being around horses, and listening to everything my wife and her trainer (Karen Zoelle) said during lessons. Early on, without doing anything but listening, you would not believe how much I learned. At this time, my wife was just beginning formal training. Thus her lessons started right from the basics, both in riding and handling a horse. Being able to listen at first, without having to do, allowed me grasp some understanding and thus confidence. Slowly I learned to brush, pick hooves, put on a saddle, and even ride a little. The most important part of the early experience was Karen. (disclaimer: so I don't get yelled at, my bride plays the biggest role in all of this as we move forward) I am not sure if Karen did it on purpose, but she kind of hand picked my first experiences and made sure I did not end up in any negative situations.

I am still not sure when it happened, but at some point I suddenly realized I was no longer afraid. I still did not have a lot of confidence, but the paralizing /hand trembling fear was gone. In it's place was a healthy respect for these incredible animals. I had come to understand the similarities and the differences between dogs and horses. (sorry, I always refer back to dogs because it is what I know.) Both animals need strong leaders, but for seemingly different reasons that I am not sure I can easily explain in words. If handled improperly, they are both capable of hurting you. Dogs will do it on purpose, horses will do it on accident, but they have one huge thing in common. Both species will almost always do it out of fear. If you can reduce the fear factor, you greatly reduce the chance of anything bad happening.

Early in my learning experience, I did not fully grasp how important the concept of fear was in horse training. I was so focused on controlling my own fear, that I never fully understood that it was the horses fear that really needed to be quelled. This is a lesson I learned later, when my wife bought her own horse.

PART 3

At this stage, things start to ramp up a bit. It is one thing to be taught how to handle an old, calm, and well trained horse. The stakes were higher when my wife bought a scared, untrained, younger horse. His name is Sequoia. He is half quarter horse, half pony, cute, and kind. But his confidence was shot. He was head shy and jerky. He spooked easily. He had little to no dressage training. I went from thinking I knew how to handle a horse to realizing exactly how much I still had to learn.

Early in his training, Leslie realized she needed help. She turned to Ellie Neerdales, a natural horsemanship trainer here in Green Bay, WI. She began to learn this method of training, and began to use it on Sequoia. She was spending between 5 to 8 nights per week with her horse. (no that was not a typo) About 3 months in she hit her low point. She took Sequoia for his first trailer ride to another stable. If she wanted to be able to show him at some point, he was going to have to get used to traveling. She had all kinds of problems. All the progress she had made with him during the first 3 months just flew right out the window. He was back to spooking, and generally acting a little crazy. A girl at the barn even commented on how bad of a horse he was, and told Leslie she should give up on him and get a new horse. (I am not naming names, but I hope this girl reads this article someday and takes her foot out of her mouth long enough to say I am sorry). That night Leslie was a bit of a wreck. With the amount of hours that she put in she seemed to be at wick's end and possibly ready to cash it in.The next night, she was back at the barn and working as hard as ever. (Did I mention she is slightly stubborn.)

Most of the time, it seems as though a horse's fear is born out of new situations, new sounds, new places. In general, it is the unknown that causes the horse to freak out, and it is impossible to introduce your horse to every possible scenario or sound that may cause this reaction. Since you cannot prevent the scenarios from happening and you cannot fully prepare your horse for every scenario, then what you must do is reduce the level of your horses negative reaction to these events. In my humble opinion there is one way, and only one way to do this. Through TRUST. Trust must be built and earned with a horse. The most important thing in any relationship is trust, and that goes for both people and horses. Each time Sequoia ran into an obstacle, Leslie would break it down with time and trust. So many horse owners just seem to accept certain behavior, and by accepting the behavior they reinforce it.

Sequoia was afraid of the fly spray bottle. Rather than accept his fear, she beat it. She took him in the arena, set the spray bottle on the ground, and made him stand by it and look at it. When he seemed comfortable, she picked up. Not sure why, but as soon as she was holding it, it became a whole new threat. She waited til he calmed down and then made him look at it and smell it again. She then proceeded to rub the bottle all over his body until he was completely comfortable with it, and finally she was able to spray him with it. The process took over an hour, and it had to be repeated several times, but he has no problem with the spray bottle anymore.

Now I realize that most horse owners may not be willing to put in this much time in to get their horse over a fear of a bottle, but what they fail to realize is that this positive reinforcement was a brick in the foundation of the well balanced horse that Sequoia became. The time spent with the spray bottle served to increase the horse's trust in it's owner. He began to realize that she was not going to hurt him. Every time he conquered a fear with her assistance his trust in her would grow, and the time it would take to overcome each obstacle would slowly decrease. His trust has grown to the point where he not only trusts "her" to not hurt him, but to the point where he believes she will protect him.

Now when faced with a new and dangerous lawn chair, he no longer "spooks". His reaction is much more subtle. He looks to his trusted leader and seems to ask, "Should we be scared." And through the simple act of letting him see and smell the obstacle she seems to answer, "There is nothing to be afraid of."

Now that the horse is trained, it is my turn to be trained.

"Lee Geurts" aka Lee Speakin

My Knowledge Sources (bibliography)

* Karen Zoelle - Green Bay, WI Based Dressage Trainer

* Ellie Neerdales - Green Bay, WI Based Natural Horsemanship Trainer

* Danielle Jauquette - Green Bay, WI Based Hunter Jumper Trainer

* And of course my lovely wife, Leslie Heyden

My stories will vary greatly, because my interests vary greatly. My personal hobbies include: Collecting and reading comic books, Sci Fi Books, and Fantasy books. Playing boardgames. Watching geeky movies and TV shows. Both playing and watching sports.

My wife's hobbies, which consequently have also become my hobbies include: Horseback riding, dressage, natural horsemanship, and Orchid Growing.

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Lee "Speakin" Geurts

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